Trading life for survival
As the sun rises over the rolling hills of Malawi, the country’s roads come alive with groaning motorcycles and commuters’ chatter.
But for motorcyclists at Kameza Roundabout, the daily rides are a risky adventure fraught with potholes, corruption and uncertainty.
From the crumbling asphalt of the M1 to the dusty tracks of rural areas, the country’s roads testify to a breakdown in the standards of the country’s public infrastructure.
But it’s not just the roads that are risky.

From corrupt traffic police to unroadworthy vehicles dangerously overloaded with passengers, every trip puts road users in harms’ way.
For motorcycle cyclist Roben Chikapa, the roads of Malawi are a death trap for cyclists of all manner.
“There are no protective barriers or biking lanes in sight,” he says.
Cyclists like 38-year-old Chikapa must navigate treacherous potholes, reckless drivers and unpredictable pedestrians.
Despite the dangers, Chikapa and thousands of others rely on their motorcycles to earn a living.
Fuel-efficient, affordable and convenient for travellers in a hurry, motorcycles have become an indispensable part of the country’s transport mix—but at a cost.
“I know the dangers of operating a motorcycle in a busy city like Blantyre, but what can I do? My two children, who are in secondary school, need fees,” Chikapa says.
With a sick wife at home, Chikapa only hopes for a miracle to return home safe and sound.
Every morning, he says a prayer to face the harsh realities of the day.
“In December, an accident left me hospitalised for two weeks with a knee fracture and this affected my family. I’m a sole provider and my wife’s condition got worse since I couldn’t buy her medicine and food,” she says.
Chikapa hopes for a day when all road users can safely share the lanes.
Alick Jiya, who picks travellers at a fee at Soche Quarry Market, says he joined the risky business after futile attempts to get a job. He survives on the proceeds of his motorcycle taxi.
“I started off as a part-time kabaza operator, but now I own a motorcycle. However, I’ve never attended any formal training,” he says.
Operating the unregistered motorcycle with any driving licence and protective wear exposes him and passengers to deadly dangers.
This is a common crisis rocking the kabaza business, which has flooded hospitals with fractured patients.
Traffic police report that motorcycle accidents increased by over 30 percent last year and the majority involved motorcyclists not wearing crash helmets. The law enforcers blame the risk on reckless driving, overloading and poor road conditions.
According to the Department of Road Traffic and Safety Services, 4 566 kabaza-related accidents claimed 472 lives between 2020 and 2023, representing 118 deaths annually.
But this is not the only danger motorcyclists brave on the roads of Malawi.
Many fear being robbed, injured or killed at night.
“I was once attacked by thugs who took my motorbike and left me unconscious. They wounded me and got away with my money for the whole week. I was in a critical state and spent a week in hospital,” Jiya says.
However, the motorcyclists do not appear to fear traffic officers as they pass checkpoints scot-free despite breaking road traffic regulations in daylight.
“We can take two to three passengers and get away with it. If stopped, we will just give them something as little as K500,” he says.
Social commentator Lucky Mbewe says time has come for the country to embrace the surging numbers of cyclists as they are part of the national economy and transport options.
“When designing and constructing new roads, we need to put the motorcyclists into consideration so that they can safely navigate traffic,” he says.
He also urges authorities to restore law and order on the country’s roads.
He calls for strict law enforcement and collaborative initiatives to empower the motorcyclists with the life-saving knowledge, props, skills and attitudes.
Inspector General of Police Merylene Yolamu said the security agents will continue to enforce traffic regulations and educate the public on road safety.
As the ailing economy grows, the country’s risky roads play an increasingly critical role in connecting people and moving goods and services.
But for motorists like Chikapa, the journey ahead is a life-and-death tale of more than just road infrastructure but also dignity, opportunity and freedom of movement.
As the country invests in its transport network, it must prioritise the safety, well-being and livelihoods of all road users.